May 20, 2013

Am I mad to Make Two Project Runway Simplicity 1799

Every time I get set to cut a Project Runway pattern from Simplicity I have the hardest time choosing just one variation.
First and foremost there are so many design options; between the bodice and skirt and sleeves and even yokes. Then there are the details: trim, ruffles, ties, buttons, topstitching, and bands.
More times than not I end up cutting 2 variations from the envelope. It is amazing to see how different each look is from the other. This is what happened with Simplicity 1799.
Today I wore my flouncy version for Me-Made-May.




This lovely dress is made from a rayon that was underlined, except for the side skirt flounces and sleeves. I elected to underline it to give some stability. In the end this decision worked well however it added so many steps to the construction process as well as some intense solutions to unforeseen fabric issues.
One of the amazing qualities of this light weight rayon is its drape and soft hand, perfect for flounces. Not so perfect qualities when pared with a stiffer lining that has been cut to form to the shape of the body. When I was attempting to match the side panels with out many inner seam allowances to rub against the body, the outer rayon layer would droop along the side gathering at the hip. My solution was to stitch in the ditch along the side seams holding the rayon layer to the lining. In the future I will only flatline rayon which I feel deserves structure. (Flatlining - fashion fabric and lining fabric are treated as one fabric; opposed to  constructing the garment and the lining separately and then stitching them together.)
Inner Garment View:

My second view of Simplicity 1799 was less successful. I have yet to actually wear it, I threw it on for picture comparison.
After the pic it ended up in the donation box to find a new home to love it. 
 
Technically there is nothing wrong with the dress, just that I will never wear it. Mainly because it is unlined and makes me feel exposed and in dire need of Spanx. I will say it again, "I am my own worse critic."

Have you made more than one dress at a time from on Project Runway pattern, or am I alone in this madness?
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May 16, 2013

Geometric Print Color-block Dress for Me-Made-May Goes Directly to Alterations

Today for Me-Made-May I threw on Simplicity 1803.
All should have been well; I nabbed quite a few compliments at work  but over all I was uncomfortable in the dress. Do not get me wrong, I love the dress and I have high hopes that it will become my favorite dress with some tweaks. The lovely geometric print rayon is a wonderful spring/summer fabric.
It is too cute for words:

But in order to wear it I had to cover up the cute details with a cardigan. This is due to:

  1. I am very apprehensive to show off my arms.  I know there really is no logical/ rational reasoning all I can saw is, "As women, we are our own worst critics."  
  2. There is a cute open cutout above the bust which was the entire reason I was drawn to the pattern. I found that the cutout is a little too gaping for my personal comfort level. 
  3. As darling as the little cap sleeves are I fell that I will never wear it without wanting to cover it up with such short sleeves. 

Lesson learned, I can not sew by the seat of my pants, I need sewing foresight. I am currently digging through my scrap fabric tote hoping for enough to redo the sleeves. If and when I remodel the sleeves I am also going to close up some of the bust gap. Also while I am there I am also going to shorten the hem; with longer sleeves it may become matronly with a long hem too.
Have you ever worn a Me-Made and found immediate alterations? 

May 15, 2013

Jacket Gone Wild...Me-Made-May

I am very guilty of starting sewing projects and never finishing them (UFOs).
Well mark this Crazy jacket off the list.

Last March I cut two versions of Simplicity 2056; view B in a hounds tooth and this view C. 
Immediately I constructed the bodice of view C leaving the sleeves untouched. When constructing the bodice I began to become frustrated. Either I made the project too complicated or I am just that fickle. 
How and why you ask?
The fabric I choose was a leopard print stretch cotton. Not at all outer jacket weight. To solve the problem I thought it would be a grand idea to line the jacket in a burgundy canvas. The jacket weight problem was solved but it made construction much more complicated. Like most Simplicity patterns, 2056 did NOT call for lining. It had large turned hem allowances which would have caused much too much bulk at the hem and cuffs with double canvas and cotton. Therefor before cutting my fabric I adjusted the hem allowances to 5/8 inch and then had to make continuous adjustments to the construction to create a clean inner garment.

Another challenge were those disregarded sleeves. They had a vent opening where an exposed zip was added. I stitched the lining to the outer sleeve from one side of the vent around the cuff to the other. 
I then turned and pressed 
After which I could add my zip. I was using vintage notions and my sleeve zips did not match my front zipper so I decided to add them to the inside of my sleeve in lieu of called for exposed zippers. 

Although it was a long time in the making in the end I love my wild crazy jacket. I also added some plastic jems to the collar just to send it over the top. I know I will never be caught wearing the same jacket as anyone else. 


Me-Made-May has taught me that I need more causal personally made garments. 
I have so many dresses mainly for work but on a day off I am lacking Me-Made options. 

May 12, 2013

Me-Made-May Weekend Peony Print Fabric Affair

I have concluded a 48 hour affair with two Me-Made pieces from the same April Johnston Project Runway Fabric. I purchased my fabric some time ago from the Jo Ann Fabric Stores clearance section. Jo Ann has continued the fabric line however I am not as drawn to the current offering I much prefer the original
designs:

source: True Up
I was able to snag a few of these fabrics for my stash. Most recently I used my graphic floral peony print, which is a printed polished stretch cotton. Out of the 3 yards that were purchased I was able to make a dress and a skirt.
On Saturday I wore my skirt. It is a simple short circle skirt with a side zip from the Suede Says (a fellow Project Runway alum) Simplicity pattern line 2233

Super cute simple skirt, it was so easy to construct and is easy to wear.

Sunday I wore a dress in the same fabric; the pattern was McCall's 6318 (now out of print). 
Break time selfie at work. Do you see my lovely Mom's Day corsage from the lovely folks I work with? 
Why is it by the time I get around to making a dress I actually like the pattern is OOP and I would have loved to pick up an additional copy for future use. Just my luck, I should sew faster.

For the dress I choose to merge two views my neckline is that of view C but I elected to add the color blocked bodice panels of View B. I thought the print would be overwhelming on me and I am also on a color block kick. 

I love the pattern and I love the fabric. I look forward to cooler months so I can layer the dress over a turtle neck and show off the neat back design lines (do not wear sleeveless so for now I will have to wear a cardigan).

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May 10, 2013

Homage to the Great Gatsby Era from a 1960's Loving Gal


"The transformation from constricting, corset-like bodices, which most likely decreased fertility rates (double-dipping in style and contraception) and stifled hunger, to dresses with dropped waists was one that coincided with the female sexual revolution in the 1920s." - Ellen Duffer
Without a doubt the drop waist is the first silhouette that comes to mind when I think of Gatsby. This got me pondering the correlation to the reappearance of the trend in the 1960's; due to the fact that I am a 60's loving gal.

"While the ’60s marked a whirlwind time of trends and change, it also marked a return to favor for the drop waist. Thanks to production power and the rise of department store fashion, girls and women can buy drop waist cotton and machine washable frocks in a variety of designs and patterns, like gingham, chevron stripes or oversize floral, some of the more popular patterns of the time.

Not all American women purchased their drop waist dresses in the ’60's, however. Vogue and McCall magazines released sewing patterns with every issue, which mothers and their daughters would use to sew their own clothes. So the trends of the day just weren't a reflection of what was in the stores — but what was in your mailboxes to be made at home, too." Sammy Davis Vintage

I love vintage patterns and I have 1960's patterns! And I knew just the one to use for the
The Great Gatsby Sewing Challenge my beloved Vogue Special Design 6120 with a nod to the Garçonne look. This pattern has been on my to make list for quite some time and the amazing themed challenge, hosted by the lovely Miss Crayola Creepy, equated to the perfect pairing.









I used stash fabrics, a crinkled rayon fabric and an acetate lining. I added 1/2" to the side seams of the pattern  from under arm to hem as well as sleeves for a loose fit. I was afraid that with no zipper and my broad shoulders I would not have been able to get into the dress. I also cropped the sleeves to end where the drop waist began. Also I removed about 15" vertically from the outer skirt. Lets take a look at the skirt construction directions:
Oh my land! The math involved in shortening/ removing layers in this skirt. And then the construction, I removed and restitched so many times to just get my layers to lay correct. All is well that ends well, I could Charleston all night in this skirt. Here is a little dance:
Giving you my Carey Mulligan face 





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